Winter Prep for my R65?
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Winter Prep for my R65?
My first carburetored bike, what did you do? Fill the tank half full and add fuel stabilizer then run the bike for 5 min, or fill the tank half full and add fuel stabilizer and then drain the carburetors, or fill the tank half full and drain the carburetors?
Thanks
:^)
Thanks
:^)
Dino- Number of posts : 432
Location : Cole Harbour, NS
Registration date : 2007-11-20
Re: Winter Prep for my R65?
Dino:
I wouldn't consider myself an expert, but I did have my R50/5 for about 35 years with no problems. For winter storage indoors, I used to fill the gas tank to the top to prevent rusting of the steel tank, turn the petcocks off and run the carbs dry. (The R50 carb bowls also came off easy so you could dump the fuel. I didn't use stabilizer, but it's probably a good idea. If you don't empty the gas in the carbs, it evaporates and leaves varnish!
I sometimes took out the plugs, squirted some light oil into the cylinders and kicked the cylinders over a couple of times. Don't know whether this did anything other than foul the plugs in the spring:-)
I then put the bike on the centerstand. Also changed oil and took out the old filter. In the spring, I would put in a new filter and often put in oil again ... air heads don't take much oil:-)
Also would remove the battery for periodic charging. I used a car charger with a taillight in series to limit the current to less than an amp. You probably have a much better "tender" these days!
Sometime over the winter I would remove the rear wheel and grease the splines with moly grease and a few cotton swabs. Also repaint bare spots on the frame, etc.
Have fun! Perhaps others can add more, but I didn't notice many answers:-)
I wouldn't consider myself an expert, but I did have my R50/5 for about 35 years with no problems. For winter storage indoors, I used to fill the gas tank to the top to prevent rusting of the steel tank, turn the petcocks off and run the carbs dry. (The R50 carb bowls also came off easy so you could dump the fuel. I didn't use stabilizer, but it's probably a good idea. If you don't empty the gas in the carbs, it evaporates and leaves varnish!
I sometimes took out the plugs, squirted some light oil into the cylinders and kicked the cylinders over a couple of times. Don't know whether this did anything other than foul the plugs in the spring:-)
I then put the bike on the centerstand. Also changed oil and took out the old filter. In the spring, I would put in a new filter and often put in oil again ... air heads don't take much oil:-)
Also would remove the battery for periodic charging. I used a car charger with a taillight in series to limit the current to less than an amp. You probably have a much better "tender" these days!
Sometime over the winter I would remove the rear wheel and grease the splines with moly grease and a few cotton swabs. Also repaint bare spots on the frame, etc.
Have fun! Perhaps others can add more, but I didn't notice many answers:-)
keng- Number of posts : 253
Location : Dartmouth, NS
Registration date : 2008-01-22
Re: Winter Prep for my R65?
I'm no expert either and I don't necessarily do everything I say but...
I have it on good authority that used oil does contain acids that can be detrimental to long bearing life for example. Sooo,
it is good practice to change oil at the end of the season so as not to leave old oil in the bike. Having said that a little run after changing the oils flushes out the oil with the new-er oil and is better than letting old oil sit around in the bike all winter eating away at stuff. Stabil is advisable because I have also heard that the newer gasoline formulation don't seem to last as long as in the days of old (when 'back in the day' it had other good stuff in it like 'lead'). A full tank will aid in preventing or minimizing condensation.
I sometimes use most of this 'over the winter ga' in the lawn mower if it so happens I'm low in that jug.
I have it on good authority that used oil does contain acids that can be detrimental to long bearing life for example. Sooo,
it is good practice to change oil at the end of the season so as not to leave old oil in the bike. Having said that a little run after changing the oils flushes out the oil with the new-er oil and is better than letting old oil sit around in the bike all winter eating away at stuff. Stabil is advisable because I have also heard that the newer gasoline formulation don't seem to last as long as in the days of old (when 'back in the day' it had other good stuff in it like 'lead'). A full tank will aid in preventing or minimizing condensation.
I sometimes use most of this 'over the winter ga' in the lawn mower if it so happens I'm low in that jug.
r90sLifer- Number of posts : 779
Location : Waverley,NS
Registration date : 2007-11-18
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